Kawasaki TJ27 Repair Service Workshop
Kawasaki TJ27 Workshop Manual for the Kawasaki Brushcutter Trimmer. Repair and service the Kawasaki TJ27 with this manual. The manual has diagrams and accurate information as used by mechanics and repair shops to troubleshoot and repair the TJ27. View free page images online or download a full PDF that you can print or view on all suitable devices.
The Kawasaki TJ27 workshop manuals have plenty of pictures and diagrams to help with repairs and servicing. May be used as a guide for other models as they may share key components such as motors.
More carburetor Manuals HERE and a Kawasaki TJ27 Brushcutter Trimmer parts list HERE. A Brushcutter Trimmer search (magnifier icon) at top of this page, as well as a TJ27 Brushcutter trimmer repair help question and answer page HERE.
Kawasaki TJ27 Specifications
Type of Engine- Forced air-cooled, 2-stroke, horizontal shaft, gasoline engine
Bore × Stroke- 34 mm × 29 mm (1.34 in. × 1.14 in.)
Piston Displacement- 26.3 mL (1.60 cu. in.)
Direction of Rotation- Counterclockwise facing the PTO shaft
Ignition System- Flywheel magneto transistor type
Starting System- Kar Recoil starter (Coil damper type)
Spark Plug- NGK BPMR6A
Clutch Type- Automatic centrifugal type
Clutch Drum Bore- Φ54
Carburetor- Diaphragm with starter button type (TZ11K-2A by TK)
Air Cleaner- Dry type
Dimensions- (L × W × H ) 167 mm × 217 mm × 231 mm (6.57 in. × 8.54 in. × 9.09 in.)
Dry Weight- 2.3 kg (5.1 lbs)
Mixing Ratio- Regular unleaded gasoline 50 : 1 2 stroke engine oil (JASO-FC class)
Tank Capacity- 0.6 L (0.63 US qt)
Kawasaki TJ27 Workshop Manual Contents
Tightening Torque, Throttle Stop Screw, Fuel System, Idling Speed Adjustment, Fuel Tube Replacement, Fuel Filter, Cylinder, Piston, Crankshaft, Spark Plug, Fuel System, Electrical System, Ignition Coil, Flywheel,Recoil Starter, Troubleshooting.
Troubleshooting from Kawasaki TJ27 workshop manual
Pulling recoil starter grip would not cause enough compression-Wear in piston, Wear in piston ring, Wear or deformation of cylinder bore, Poor tightening of cylinder and spark plug.
After making several starting attempts, it is found, on removing spark plug, that electrodes are still dry-No fuel in fuel tank, Clogging of dust or entry of air in fuel pipe, Clogged fuel tank cap air vent and breather, Foul fuel filter in fuel tank, Air entering at gasket fitted to carburetor flange, Clogged carburetor needle jet or main jet.
After making several starting attempts, it is found, on removing spark plug, that electrodes are excessively wet-Faulty starter button pushing (ln summer, or when engine is warm, starter button pushing gives too rich mixture), Overflow of fuel from carburetor, Clogged air cleaner.
On removing spark plug, moisture condensed on spark plug electrodes-Mixture of water into fuel, Deterioration in fuel because of poor long-term storage, Use of fuel other than designated.
Make spark check. No spark but spark appears on spark plug replaced-Electrodes are burned and damaged to cause too wide gap, Much carbon bridging electrodes gap, Small foreign matter being caught between electrodes, Faulty insulation of electrodes.
No spark in any spark plug, but spark appears when the end of high tension cord is touched to engine block-Faulty contacting at spark, plug cap.
No fuel drains into the return pipe in spite of several priming operation-Clogging in fuel tube at inlet side, Broken tube at inlet side, Air leakage from joint part of fuel tube at
inlet side, Adhesion of dust to check valve of priming pump, Broken check valve of priming pump or damaged seat surface of pump cover, Air leakage from fitting area of priming pump, Broken priming pump, Air leakage from main check valve, Loosen main diaphragm cover, Broken main diaphragm.
Fuel drains into the return pipe by priming operation, but engine does not start-Clogged air filter, Clogged needle jet, Overflow of fuel from needle jet to the venturi of carburetor.
After starting, engine revolution does not continue-Clogged pulse passage, Improper height of control lever.
No spark or very weak spark at the end of high tension on cord-Engine switch lead wire is jammed, Short circuit in engine switch, Recoil starter revolution is lower than that igniter begins to work, Wiring of coil coming short circuited or disconnect, Engine switch lead wire is jammed, Flywheel demagnetized.
When throttle valve is opened gradually, revolution speed drops at some position or engine stops, Clogging in carburetor inside, Foul fuel filter, Faulty carburetor gasket, Incomplete fitting of carburetor.
When spark test of spark plug is made with recoil starter rope pulled, spark appears very week-Faulty insulation of spark plug, Foul electrodes, Faulty magneto, Faulty ignition coil.
Loaded operation causes revolution fluctuation with big frequency-Clogged fuel tank cap air vent and breather, Dust clogging in or entry of air into fuel pipe or carburetor.
Unstable idling and the running does not continue-Air entering engine through the fitting part of carburetor, Too low idling speed (rpm), Clogged main check valve, Clogged needle jet or main jet, Improper height of control lever.
Engine does not accelerate in spite of opening throttle valve-Clogged air filter, Clogging in fuel tube at inlet side, Fuel passage or pulse passage of fuel pump is clogged, Clogged needle jet or main jet, Clogged main check valve, Improper height of control lever.
Unstable revolution at high speed-Clogged air filter, Clogged in fuel tube at inlet side, Fuel passage or pulse passage of fuel pump is clogged, Clogged needle jet or main jet, Clogged main check valve, Improper height of control lever.
Same as “Hard Starting”-Same as “Hard Starting”.
Engine overheated-Clogged air cleaner, Carbon deposit inside combustion chamber, Inappropriate mixing ratio (too little oil), Broken cooling fan blade, Dirt or dust attached to cooling fins of cylinder, Grass or dirt attached to cooling air passage and flywheel blade.
Thick smoke issues from exhaust port-Same as “Hard Starting”, Carbon deposit narrows
exhaust passage and muffler, Excessive oil mixed.
Engine knocking-Inferior fuel.
Abnormal Engine Noises
Piston Slapping-Cylinder and piston ring wear, Wear and/or deformation in piston, Carbon deposit inside combustion chamber, Wear in piston pin and connecting rod small end bearing, Wear in piston and piston pin.
Connecting rod noise-Wear in large and small end bearings.
Surging-Foul air cleaner, Dust clogging in or air entry into fuel pipe, Clogged fuel tank cap air vent and breather, Clogged carburetor.
Fuel Leakage from Carburetor
Fuel leak from carburetor-Foreign matter attached to needle valve and/or valve seat, Correction or wear in needle valve and/or valve seat, Poor tightening of diaphragm gasket.
Excessive Fuel Consumption
Same as “Hard Starting”-Poor compression.
Sufficient compression but excessive fuel consumption-Too rich fuel mixture, Inferior fuel, Foul air cleaner, Too high idling speed.
Same as “Fuel Leakage from Carburetor”-Same as “Fuel Leakage from Carburetor”.
Engine Stops during Operation
Difficulty in cranking, or seizure-Excessively lean fuel mixture (too little fuel), Inferior lubricating oil mixed, Excessive carbon deposit in combustion chamber, Dust accumulation on cooling fins of cylinder.
Cranking is easy-Faulty spark plug, Faulty magneto, Looseness in connections, Faulty ignition coil.
More detailed service and repair information can be found in Kawasaki TJ27 workshop manual download.
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